Sunday, September 27, 2009
24 Hour Fitness ... or As Much As I Can Stand
How cool is that!?
So, I decided to take advantage of it. I checked out the local 24 Hour Fitness, which has a gym, a pool, a basketball court, a sauna, a jacuzzi, a cycle room and an exercise classroom. Nice! I'm going to try to go every day.
This might make Half Dome a little easier...
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
Not Iron Man
Fatigue and weakness are symptoms, because the body's tissues aren't getting enough oxygen. Apparently, decreased appetite is also one of the symptoms of iron deficiency anemia. So this may be the reason why I've been having to force myself to eat while hiking.
How annoying that this happened right before our Half Dome hike!
I thought it was weird that I couldn't keep up with Duane last Saturday. I have never been unable to keep up. I'm usually in the lead. I wasn't having a problem during our final conditioning hikes, though I wasn't at as high an altitude either.
Feather Falls is somewhere around 2900 feet elevation. Black Mountain is at about 2800 feet. Saratoga Gap is lower at around 2400 feet. Mission Peak, which we did earlier in the Spring - twice in one day - was 2517 feet. We did the Panorama Trail down to Happy Isles last June and I had no problem at all and had plenty of energy left at the end of the hike. I was at the front of the pack the whole way. During our Half Dome hike I was anywhere from 7200 feet elevation at Glacier Point, down to about 6000 feet at Nevada Fall, and back up to 7300-7500 feet elevation where we finally turned back.
The only surprise for me is the relationship between iron deficiency anemia and appetite. I expected that the anemia could be a problem. I'm nevertheless annoyed.
Half Dome FastPass
This particular method below assumes no ranger on post at Sub Dome and none at lower trail junctions, and no government mandate to strictly limit access to Half Dome. The weakest element is social; whether frustrated hikers with no pass will ignore all fancy rules and just cut in front anyhow. They now stay in their place in the waiting line largely because there are no visible exceptions; no one is passing others.
Twenty-five percent of the total reservation slots would be held back until two days before the hike date. They would sell for $5 per person and not need further re-confirmation.
No visit to any park office is necessary; planners would be able to do all this from home. People could also do this at the park at many existing ranger-staffed help desks.
The reservation software would remind hikers of the additional basic safety needs for this hike: non-slip shoes, water, gloves, and watching out for weather. The site could also require viewing of a safety video.
The software would remind hikers of the park's recommendation that they sleep locally before they begin the hike. (A permit system could enforce this by requiring all hikers to pick up their physical ticket in Yosemite itself during office hours in the days before the hike. However, this office visit would inconvenience lots of people and cause more car trips within in the valley.)
In practice, none of this ticket stuff will matter during non-peak periods. During peak periods, nearly everyone will have a ticket. People will stagger their starting times so they arrive a bit before the time on their ticket, so there will no longer be a single rush of everyone racing to the cables at dawn. Average waiting times should go way down. If a few hikers do not get to the cables by the time they targeted , they still have a very good prospect of going up within one hour.
The setup costs and maintenance costs for this reservation system would be very low, and those costs would be covered by the fees. The main barrier is political, getting it approved and backed by the various interest groups of Yosemite.
Monday, September 21, 2009
Lessons Learned
1. I need to be in much better physical condition to ever try this again. I'm in better shape than when I first started our Half Dome Challenge, but that's still not good enough. I need to develop both more stamina and muscle.
2. I still need to take off some of the weight I gained during my brain tumor year. I've lost ten pounds of that, but I need to take off at least another twenty. Thirty would be even better.
3. The Stairmaster needs to become my friend. My best friend.
4. Never again will I attempt Half Dome on a weekend, if ever at all. Hiking on such a crowded day makes the Half Dome hike more dangerous than it has to be. The throngs of hikers that we encountered from Nevada Fall onwards were quite a shock after the serenely quiet Panorama Trail.
5. I'm not the fastest hiker on the planet, but I'm pretty steady. It's mentally distressing to be passed by so many people. This is another reason why hiking on a weekday would be a better idea.
6. I will never again forget to check that the hiking pants I pack are actually mine.
7. I need to learn to pack lighter. I don't need two hydration packs. I never needed or used the smaller one liter pack.
8. A brighter headlamp would be good, if I ever do this as a one day hike again.
9. Doing the hike as one of my friends does, overnighting in Little Yosemite Valley, is not a bad idea. But my day pack may not be large enough, and I'm sure I don't have the right kind of sleeping bag and mat.
10. I need to better understand how to manage my energy level on the trail and how to control the appetite suppression that happens as a result of exercise.
11. When packing a ham radio into the wilderness, have the Wilderness Protocol frequencies pre-programmed into the right radio.
12. Anemia makes a difference at high altitudes, as I expected it would. As it is, women already have a lower red blood cell count than men generally. We need to keep every red blood cell we can hang on to - and those need to be replete with iron!
Saturday, September 19, 2009
Unfinished Business (Her Story)
I called the valet service to ask them to have our car ready in half an hour. Then I jumped in the shower and then got dressed. I put on my pants and immediately knew something was wrong. They were a tad too tight and then I realized - with horror - that I had accidentally packed Duane's hiking pants and not mine. They are exactly the same color - the only difference being the belt loops and the lack of a boot zipper at the bottom of the pant. Fortunately, we're about the same height and size, so they fit. Unfortunately for me, however, men's pants are cut narrower in the thigh. Although the pants fit, with every uphill step I would be fighting these pants. Subdome wouldn't just be difficult. It would be awful. I briefly considered wearing my jeans and quickly discarded that idea for a multiplicity of reasons. Duane's pants would have to do.
I was ready to go by 3:30 am, as we had planned. Duane was still packing his pack, which he hadn't done the night before. Grrr! By the time we left our room, it was 3:45 am. We were now 45 minutes later than I had wanted to be. I didn't get out of the parking lot, before realizing that I had left my National Park Pass in the hotel room. I ran back up to the room to get it. And then we were on our way to Glacier Point and the Panorama Trail trailhead.
It took us about 40 minutes to drive to Glacier Point. The road is currently gravel and torn up from Highway 41 to the turn off for Badger Pass ski area - about six miles. Fortunately, the road is graded well and is not badly washboarded. I was able to maintain between 20-30 mph on the dirt portion of the road, just under the regular speed limit. We arrived and parked near the outhouse. There were more cars than I expected - about eight vehicles - at that time of the morning. We parked and prepared our hiking poles, tied our hiking boots and put on our packs. Duane spent precious minutes repacking his backpack. I really didn't understand why this wasn't already done the night before. By the time he was ready to go, it was nearly 5:00 am, almost a full hour after we should have been on the trail.
One of the best things about being up at the wee hours of the morning at Glacier Point, was the heavenly view of the sky. We could easily see the Pleiades, Cygnus, Orion and the Milky Way. The sky was so full of stars that it was difficult to pick out familiar constellations. We could also see Venus just to the right of the black lump that had to be Half Dome. A beautiful sight, but we couldn't really stop at length to enjoy it, already being so late.
We found the trailhead and away we went. I wore two headlamps on my visor, but even though I was able to see, the lack of depth perception made hiking slower and more difficult. I didn't want to take a misstep and fall and hurt myself in the dark. Duane seemed to have better luck carrying his headlamp, but I knew that wouldn't have worked for me with both hands gripping my hiking poles. About halfway to Illilouette Fall, we could see the thin band of morning's first light breaking over the eastern horizon. About this same time, we saw pinpoints of light as if floating in the distance and lower across the canyon. This must have been other hikers on their way to Half Dome. It didn't get light enough to hike without head lamps until we reached Illilouette Fall, around 6:45 am.
For a while, we played the question game. Duane pulled a Reggie "Val Kilmer" moment. Marilyn Monroe was not appearing in films made in the 1970s (she died in 1962), nor was she as well known for her dramatic roles as she was for romantic comedies. No way I would have gotten that with the clues given.
After a short break to eat a trail bar at Illilouette Fall, we continue on across the bridge, up and out of Illilouette Canyon and to the Panorama Cliffs. At this point, rosy fingered Dawn was finally hitting the western peaks of Yosemite Valley. Beautiful! We decided to pass up a short trip to Panorama Point overlook. We had already been there in June and we were already very late. We continued on.
We reached the junction for the John Muir, and Mono Meadow at about 7:30 am. This was the first time we had seen any people at all since we started. One group of three passed us, followed shortly thereafter by two more hikers. The two hikers asked us if we were on our way down from Half Dome. What?!?!?! We pointed across the Canyon and told them that Half Dome was on the other side of the Merced River and pointed towards it. Half Dome, at this point, was mostly hidden behind Liberty Cap. We turned them around and set them on the right path. The group of three that we had passed earlier, came running down the switchbacks to Nevada Falls shortly thereafter. Apparently, they had also taken a wrong turn.
Why would anyone take on a hike as long and strenuous as the Half Dome hike without a good trail map? Inquiring minds want to know...
We reached Nevada Fall at about 8:15 am. We stopped at the restroom so Duane could use it. I tried to eat my sandwich, but was attacked by several yellowjackets. The last time I ate a lunch at Nevada Falls, the only critters that wanted my sandwich were squirrels. They were much cuter than yellowjackets! I gave up and put my sandwich away. I was amazed that there were so many people here at Nevada Falls this early in the morning. Oh what a difference that hour would have made!
A few minutes later, we continued on, past the restroom and up the stone steps around Liberty Cap, until the trail leveled out and followed the Merced River for another mile. Here the trail was so full of sand, it was like walking on a beach. It was actually much easier to walk just off the trail. There was actually a fresh trail cut by hikers, right next to the main trail, for this very reason. I used it.
Shortly before the junction for the Half Dome trail, we stopped at riverside to refill our water bladders for the grueling 3.5 mile trek to the top. After reaching the Half Dome Trail junction, we turned left and headed up the saddle between Half Dome and Cloud's Rest. We were about a mile past this junction, when we heard the loud distinctive sound of helicopter rotors chopping air. It had to be nearby. We looked up at Half Dome just in time to see the helicopter take off. Being out of communication, we weren't sure what had happened, but we knew that it couldn't be good. Flying a helicopter to the top of Half Dome is not done unless there is some kind of emergency.
I pulled out my small handheld transceiver (HT) thinking that I would use it to find out what was going on, but had forgotten that the Wilderness Protocol frequency - 146.52 on 2 meters - was programmed in my other HT and I couldn't remember the frequency. I put the radio back in my pack. Without that frequency, that hunk of plastic and metal was useless and I may as well not have brought it at all. We hiked on, though now a question mark had been cast over the day. What had happened on Half Dome?
At the same time, we were being passed by many hikers. Duane was getting more and more nervous and made up his mind at one point that he was not going to go on. He didn't want to try the cables in a crowd. I didn't either, but without knowing what was happening at the top, I didn't want to quit. I was angry with him. I had not come this far to beat myself mentally - or let him do the same. If there is one thing I have learned over this past year of training, it's that any endurance activity is as much a mental contest as it is a physical contest. My body might not hold up, but my mind wasn't going to give in. What I didn't read correctly was his sense of concern.
I reasoned with him that many of the people passing us would probably already be on their way back down by the time we got there. We estimated we would reach the cables by 12:00 pm, at our current, slower pace. I agreed that if it became clear that we could not get to the top and descend by 3:00 pm, we would turn back. He agreed to continue on.
At the same time, the weather was taking an interesting turn. The weather had been forecast to be 85 degrees and perfectly sunny. We checked my hiking thermometer and it was 80 degrees, though it didn't even feel that warm. But clouds were gathering over Half Dome, coming in from the west. We couldn't be sure, from this direction, what kind of clouds they were because they were partially hidden. Were they the beginnings of the dreaded cumulonimbus - thunder clouds that could immediately put an end to our hike? We weren't sure, but we paid attention.
We reached the two mile sign and the junction to the John Muir and Cloud's Rest trails. There were many people loitering, snacking and resting here. It was easy to find someone to take a photo of us. At this point, I zipped off my (actually Duane's) pant bottoms figuring it would be easier to do all the uphill. We hiked on. About ten minutes and a half mile later, we reached the spring. If we hadn't already known that it was a spring, we would have thought it was a puddle and hiked right on by. We hiked on for another several hundred feet up this series of interminable switchbacks.
By this time, we were beginning to see some hikers on their return. We stopped some of them to ask if they knew what had happened at the top. This was when we found out that it was a suicide. A few hikers later and we discovered that the cables had been closed and would be closed for approximately two hours. Hundreds of hikers were pooling at the Saddle between Subdome and the beginning of the cables. At this point, I knew that our Half Dome attempt was over. Even if we got to the top of Subdome by 1:00 pm, we would never get up and down the cables to Half Dome in the time that we had planned with throngs of people ahead of us at the Saddle.
At the same time, I was beginning to run out of gas and my appetite was so suppressed that I was finding it difficult to eat. I knew I needed to eat - I just didn't want to. I had to force myself to eat trail bars. My sandwich was out of the question. Duane had also tried to eat his sandwich, but was immediately attacked by five to six yellowjackets. He also gave up trying to eat his sandwich. I'm not sure whether my slight anemia played a part in this, but I'm sure it didn't help.
We were almost at the top of the ridge line, where we would have been at the tree line. We could see sky above the final switchbacks on the hill. We could see hikers going up the granite switchbacks on Subdome right in front of Half Dome. We could see hikers climbing up - or perhaps only down - the cables. So near and yet so far. We were disappointed. But I knew that in my current state of exhaustion, I would not be able to get up, let alone down, the cables safely. Neither of us wanted to hike back down tired and in the dark. So we turned around, going back over the ground we had so recently traversed.
The only constructive thing I could do at this point was to say a decade of the Rosary for the deceased (though I was so tired it was difficult to hike and count Hail Marys at the same time). It's difficult for most people to know what can drive a person to despair so deep that they see no value in their own life and no hope in the future. But I have known someone who killed himself. In his case, he had chronic depression, a kind of mental illness. Others I have had a passing acquaintance with had financial or family problems. None of them were bad people, but all of them were too proud to seek help. In their weakness they chose to throw away their lives.
Suicide is inherently a selfish act. One can never commit suicide without having an impact on the family and friends left behind. Sometimes that impact is a financial one. More often it is an emotional impact. It also impacts strangers, such as the hiker who found today's suicide or the postman who found my ex-boyfriend hanging from a rope off the balcony of his house in the middle of the forest five days after he had killed himself. It impacted the helicopter pilot who had to make a risky flight to the top of Half Dome to retrieve the body. It impacted all of the hikers trying to reach the summit, causing a dangerous logjam at the cables. And it impacted the deceased who will never again see another sunrise, another sunset, or another smile. So I prayed that, whatever his situation, God would have mercy and compassion on him and would help him sort this all out.
We returned to Nevada Fall, where we took off our boots and socks and, standing on the slick granite soaked our feet in the cool river water. It felt so wonderful. My feet were so hot, but fortunately not even a hint of a blister. Thank God for REI's generous boot return policy! It took four pairs of boots before I finally found the right size and this paid dividends today. We put fresh socks on and continued on down the mountain.
The next decision was whether to take the faster, steeper Mist Trail down the mountain or to take the longer, gentler John Muir Trail. We opted for the safer, surer John Muir Trail. Along the way down, we met two ladies who were both having knee problems. Duane gave them his extra knee strap and they gave us a bar of chocolate. That was wonderful and probably really saved me. I would never have thought to bring chocolate on a hike for fear of it melting and making a mess all over my backpack. But this was dark chocolate with less likelihood of melting. I wasn't hungry for much of anything, but I was still able to eat electrolyte beans and the chocolate was wonderful! My energy level picked up a bit. Even so, I was moving like an automaton over the rocky trail at this point. The last mile or two down the John Muir Trail was the most difficult, not because of the downhill which is harder, but because my energy reserves were so depleted.
At one point between Clark Point and the Vernal Fall footbridge, Duane fell down. I heard him start to go down close behind me, so I stopped and planted myself like a tree. He grabbed my leg and this stopped his fall, but not before he got a skinned calf and bumped elbow. We stopped, I pulled out the first aid kit and we disinfected his scrape and applied a bandage. We continued on.
We reached the Vernal Fall footbridge at about 5:15 pm. It was at this point that I drank the last of my water. Duane's hydration pack had run out about half an hour earlier, higher up on the John Muir Trail. Here, I made a much needed stop at the restroom and splashed cool water all over my head. (We still each had 32 ounce bottles of water remaining, however.) It felt wonderful! It was here that we met the curly, blond haired teenager and his friends who found the suicide's body and who called 911 on his cell phone from the top of Half Dome. He didn't seem too shaken up, but we were both sorry that this had happened to him.
We continued on, arriving at Happy Isles at a couple minutes past 6:00 pm - just after the snack stand had closed. Drat! But we were in time for the shuttle, which meant we didn't have to hike the last half mile to the Curry Village parking lot. Yeah! We reached the "welcome car" and changed our shoes and used the restroom at Curry Village. We decided to eat in Curry Village rather than wait until we arrived at Tenaya Lodge. We still had to pick up our other car at Glacier Point, so it would be at least two hours before we got to the hotel. We each had a hamburger at Curry Village. Yum! Then we hobbled to the "welcome car".
Neither of us were inclined to buy the we-made-it-to-the-top-of-Half-Dome tee shirt. So we took a pass. At this point, we both wanted a hot shower and bed.
It did indeed take another two hours to get back to Tenaya Lodge. I dropped Duane off at Glacier Point, traversing the six miles of gravel road once again though this time with much more traffic. He took some final photographs of Half Dome in the last light of the day.
We arrived back at Tenaya Lodge at a little past 8:00 pm. Duane showered and I soaked in a hot bath. I didn't have the energy to put on my swimsuit and head down to the hot tub. I could have fallen asleep in the bath. We ordered room service - we were both still a little hungry - and I ordered a margarita. We wound down a little bit before finally going to bed, sleeping like the dead.
Even though we didn't make the summit of Half Dome, we both felt that this was a big accomplishment. We hiked a further distance, over more time, at higher elevation than we had ever hiked before. We came within a mile to a mile and a half of the summit of Half Dome. Neither of us are twenty-something any more. Neither of us ever thought, in all the years that we have been visiting Yosemite, that we would ever have attempted to hike to the summit of Half Dome.
Our Half Dome Hike (His Story)
We think this was about 1.5 miles from the summit. This was just below the tree line. We had not yet reached any of the hardest points of the trail: the many steep steps of Sub Dome, and the cables.
We met some hikers coming down from above. One family said that they got to the blocked cables, and touched the cables as something to remember before turning back. Later, another hiker said they had gotten to the top of Sub Dome, but the ridge line saddle between it and the cables was now so jammed full of waiting people that it was impossible to get near for even a brief touch.
We again got occasional glimpses of the cables and saddle portion of Half Dome summit. The silhouette of people crowded together on the saddle was now solid black. Probably hundreds.
2. My knees do not limit me now; that was much better since May.
A Suicide at Half Dome
Sometime before dawn on Saturday, September 19 2009, another 30-something man went up to the Half Dome summit to die alone, alone except for his handgun. He sat alone on a small ledge below the cliff top, near the famous 'Visor' but away from the cave. Perhaps he watched a final sunset. And then waited until everyone else was gone. Sitting alone in darkness, watching the stars above and lights of people in Yosemite valley far far below. Then he shot himself in the head -- somehow without rolling off the ledge.
At midnight, several teenagers started out on their long overnight hike up to Half Dome. They arrived at dawn on Saturday. One young man spotted the man's body below the edge. He initially thought the guy was just sleeping, but then spotted the blood. They called the park rangers via cell phone. A park ranger arrived, perhaps by helicopter. The summit was investigated as a possible crime scene, just in case it was actually a murder. Some hikers waiting for the cables thought that foot traffic to the summit via the cables was shut down for about two hours or so on this busiest day of the week. (Others say it remained open.) The body was moved from the ledge and then taken off the mountain by helicopter around midday. I snapped this photo just as the helicopter was taking off.
The man's name is Steve. He loved the outdoors and this mountain. He came back here from Oregon for this ending. His friend Megan describes a little bit of his life and recent family and job troubles. That site also has other information from hikers closer to the scene. There are apparently no reports about this in the newspapers, so far.
It was a busy day on the trail with many hikers queuing up to use the cables. Some hikers turned back after reaching the cables or saddle, thinking that it was closed or would be a very long time for their turn. Lower on the trail where I was, these descending hikers told us that the cables were closed. But it was all very confusing, with no one agreeing about when the closure started or when it would reopen.
Lower on the trail, the first hint of trouble was the sound of a helicopter circling the summit. We all immediately feared for some major accident up on top, perhaps involving many people, and perhaps a fatality. I was reminded of the book 'Shattered Air', about the men struck by lightning in 1985 and how difficult it was to rescue them by helicopter at night. Luckily this was mid day in perfect weather, and cell coverage now makes communication easy and certain. And Yosemite's rescue squad has accumulated a lot of practice.
A descending hiker then explained that it was about a suicide. And by gunshot, not by jumping. We were relieved that there was no accident, and only one person involved, and there was no crisis. The use of a gun was surprising and puzzling to everyone, with everyone guessing about motivations.
We soon gave up our own hike (our first time for Half Dome) before reaching Sub Dome. We were not strong enough that day or early enough to succeed on our planned timetable. The cable backlog and confusion about closures merely made it easier to accept that turnaround decision.
My impression was that quite a few families gave up, who would have certainly persisted to the summit if there had been no suicide delays. (We were not in that group.)
On our long drive home, I stewed about the suicide incident and became angry at the man's choice of venue for this final drama. Initially, just for "mis-using" this mountain and for inconveniencing so many people and wasting YOSAR resources. My anger then shifted to a more serious issue: Did he risk putting responders in danger? Was he securely wedged so that his dying body could not fall over the edge, or was it just luck that his body remained on the ledge? Had he fallen (or jumped), YOSAR would have then needed to apply much riskier procedures to retrieve the body from rocks below. I imagined and assumed the worst, that this not-falling was just luck and not something arranged in Steve's plan.
My first version of this article on Sunday was angry, harsh, and offensive to many people. I imagined I was scolding Steve and future imitators, trying to deter them from picking Half Dome for their ending. Not useful.
I hope that in the future, any troubled hikers looking to maybe follow Steve's course and example will similarly give some thought to the following:
- Will I potentially be putting fellow hikers, climbers, responders, or SAR teams at risk?
- Will I leave the mountain as peaceful and clean as the way I've enjoyed it?
- Will memories of my end detract from this place?
Rest in peace, Steve.
Friday, September 18, 2009
The Night Before the Morning After
Because we were doing our hike one way from Glacier Point to Happy Isles and because the shuttle from Happy Isles to Glacier Point doesn't run frequently in the evening, we decided to pre-position a car at Happy Isles. This involved driving two cars into the valley floor, leaving the "welcome car" at Curry Village, and then taking the second car to Tenaya Lodge, an additional hour's drive.
But how would we communicate between cars on this long drive? We had the option of using FRS/GMRS walkie talkies, cell phones or, since Duane and I are both ham radio operators, our ham radios. Since we didn't want to pay cell phone charges and since the range and battery life of FRS/GMRS radios are rather limited, we decided to use our ham radios. From my perspective, this was actually one of the best outcomes of this trip because Duane, although licensed, isn't as interested in the hobby and doesn't practice his operating skills. By day's end he had memorized his call sign (at last!), was more familiar with his handheld transceiver (HT), and was beginning to be more comfortable operating a radio.
We left a change of comfortable shoes, an ice pack, an ice chest with cold drinks, some spare (hidden) cash, and a warm sweatshirt in the welcome car at Curry Village. We then asked someone in the parking lot at Curry Village to take a photograph of us in front of Half Dome. Then we headed out in the other car towards this evening's destination - Tenaya Lodge.
We arrived at 6:00 pm, checked in, and ate dinner. We did some carb loading. Both of us had pasta and a salad, and I drank several glasses of water - as much as I could hold. Dinner was good, but the the staff was short-handed so the service was poor.
The next big decision was what time to set for our wake up call. I wanted to set the wake up call for 2:30 am, while Duane wanted 3:00 am. Against my better judgment, I deferred to Duane. We also set the alarm clock as a back up. It would take us about 30-45 minutes to drive from Tenaya Lodge to Glacier Point and the trailhead for the Panorama Trail. We needed to leave Tenaya Lodge by 3:15 am at the latest for a 4:00 am start. I didn't think we could get dressed, etc., in less than half an hour.
We set out our hiking clothes, and I prepared my pack, filled my 3 liter hydration bladder, soaked my neckerchief, and got it ready to go. Duane had everything set out to put in his pack, but didn't actually pack it.
We've been adjusting our sleep schedules for days, getting up ever earlier each morning. This morning we were up at 3:40 am. So we were both very tired and we expected it would not be difficult to get to sleep at such an early hour. We were hoping that all of this preparation would pay off tomorrow.
Preparations
Tomorrow is the big day! We will attempt to summit Half Dome. We're not going to take the usual trail from Happy Isles. We're leaving from the Panorama trail - we're trading an extra mile and a half for 2000 feet of elevation gain. And of course, much more beautiful vistas!
One of the most important preparations I made was to get my annual physical completed yesterday morning. I am healthier now on nearly all counts than I was a year ago. My HDLs are betters, my triglycerides and blood pressure are down and my weight is lower by about ten pounds. The only cause of concern is a bit of anemia, likely the result of a hormonal imbalance causing too lengthy menstrual bleeding. While that hormonal imbalance had already been addressed, I'm still a bit anemic. Red blood cells, the cells that carry oxygen through the body, take a week or longer to form. This may have an effect at higher altitude, but I can't be sure what stresses my body will be able to withstand until I get there.
I packed my backpack before going to bed last night. I made a trip to REI yesterday to stock up on some electrolyte beans, trail bars and a better trail map of the Half Dome hike. We also have some extra gear with us this time. We each have a climbing harness, a runner, and two carabiners for clipping on to the cable during the last section of the hike. And an extra pair of sticky gloves for gripping the cable.
The last loads of laundry are running now. Now all I need to pack are a change of clothes, some toiletries and a swimsuit. (The swimsuit is for when we get back to Tenaya Lodge and the hot tub!)
Unfortunately, none of the people that we asked to go with us were able to make it, so we will have to take both of our cars and drive separately. We'll park one car at Curry Village the night before, using the other car to take us to Glacier Point the next morning. We'll pick up a deli sandwich for tomorrow on the way to the Lodge. The radios are charging for inter-car communications.
We had dinner last night at a friend's restaurant with mentor Deb for some last minute coaching. As it turns out, our friend, the owner of the restaurant, had also hiked Half Dome with his wife last weekend. So he treated us to photos of his hike. Wow!
I think we're ready. We're as ready as we'll ever be this season. Our coach thinks we're ready.
It's Half Dome or bust!
Sunday, September 6, 2009
Feather Falls
We climbed the steep switchbacks up from the overlook to the main trail and then continued to climb up granite stairs until we reached a ridgeline that follows the rim of the canyon around to the Falls. From there, we scrambled down to the river bank, clambering over huge granite boulders. The granite here was smooth and slick from the weathering forces of wind and water. The trail here is not well defined and it was a miracle that I didn't get poison oak, which was growing out of the cracks and crevices of the boulders.
After a few minutes looking at the river, we departed the way we came, first heading back to the Falls overlook junction and then back down to the clearing. Here we took the longer, more gradual trail back up to the trailhead and parking lot. We passed two smaller waterfalls on Frey Creek, which was lined with lovely clusters of Woodwardia ferns. After 4.5 miles of gradual though relentless climb, we eventually reached the trail junction once more and travelled the last mile to the parking lot.
What a beautiful way to start the day!
Are we ready for Half Dome?
Saturday, September 5, 2009
Bumpass Hell
Today is our 11th wedding anniversary - and the anniversary of the beginning of many adventures! We decided to catch our bearings and do our big hike at Feather Falls tomorrow. But what to do today?
We decided to drive up to Mt. Lassen, the southernmost volcano in the Cascade Range, and so a short hike to Bumpass Hell, an area with much geothermal activity. I had not been to Bumpass Hell since I was about 10 years old on one of our family camping trips. Duane had never been there. But after our recent trip to Yellowstone National Park, we though it would be interesting to see more geothermals.
Since we didn't want to do a long hike today - the big one being tomorrow - we decided to start from Lake Helen. In this direction it's a short three mile hike, but with a good bit of elevation change (near Bumpass Hell) for the distance. There are longer ways to include Bumpass Hell in a hike, if you include Cold Boiling Lake or Crumbaugh Lake, but that was a significantly longer hike and we wanted to save ourselves for tomorrow.
The trail follows a fairly level ridge line for about the first mile. Then it begins to descend in a series of steep switchbacks down to Bumpass Hell, where there are several mudpots, one of the world's largest fumeroles, and a couple large hot springs. The geothermal area is named after Kendall Vanhook Bumpass, who used to guide people on tours of the area until he lost his leg:
Our guide, after cautioning us to be careful where we stepped, that the surface was treacherous, suddenly concluded with Virgil that the "descent to Hell was easy" for stepping on a slight inequality in the ground he broke through the crust and plunged his leg into the boiling mud beneath, which clinging to his limb burned him severely. If our guide had been a profane man I think he would have cursed a little; as it was I think his silence was owing to his inability to do the subject justice...
Editor, Red Bluff Independent, 1865
I think I would have cursed a lot (and asked forgiveness later)! The National Park Service has provided boardwalks for a safer experience and this is now a good family hike. Indeed, we saw several families with toddlers, a few of whom were crying because they either didn't like the smell or the incline back up the hill and out of Bumpass Hell.
We arrived back at the parking lot a couple of hours after we started, all warmed up and ready for tomorrow's hike to Feather Falls!
Tuesday, September 1, 2009
Saratoga Gap
From there we turned left onto the Grizzly Flat Trail and hiked down a series of short switchbacks to Stevens Creek. Here we found signs that the trail was closed - when flooded! The creek was down to only a trickle now, but it was still gurgling along and we found a nice log to sit down. We ate our sandwiches, some trail mix and drank some Gatorade before continuing on.
We hiked out of the canyon continuing along the Grizzly Flat Trail for 2.5 miles before crossing Skyline Boulevard and walking over to Long Ridge Open Space Preserve. From there we took the Peters Creek Trail along a ridge line just South of Skyline Boulevard. While along the Peters Creek, we had some nice shade, but before and after we were hiking in open grassland and it was pretty hot, though not as hot as it would have been had we hiked last weekend as originally planned.
As with last week's hike, Spring's wildflowers were pretty much gone, with the exception of some tired looking Farewell-to-Spring blossoms and one group of beautifully large thistles. We continued on reaching the junction with Long Ridge Road, where we turned left for .1 miles before turning left onto Ward Road and the last .75 miles back to Skyline Boulevard. It was another .75 miles along Skyline Boulevard before we reached the car once more, around 2:30 pm and after having hiked approximately 12 miles.
Are we more ready for Half Dome?