Backpacking on the Panorama Trail

Waiting at the North Pines bus stop

We awoke at 6:00 am, got a quick breakfast of cold cereal, broke camp, and readied our packs.  Because my backpack was so heavy, I only carried one third the usual amount of water for this hike, although I also had one litre of liquid electrolyte.  We planned to have lunch at Illilouette Fall, after which I would replenish water, if needed. 

Day 1: Glacier Point to Little Yosemite Valley

After breaking camp, we had to skedaddle to the shuttle bus by 7:00 am.  If we missed this bus, we would miss our connection to the Glacier Point bus.  Most of us were ready, but Chris wasn't quite ready, so some of us ran ahead just in case the bus came hoping that we could ask the driver to wait.  Fortunately, the bus was 15 minutes late so it turned out that we didn't have to worry at all!

Half Dome, from Glacier Point

We got to Yosemite Lodge in plenty of time to catch the Glacier Point bus, leaving us plenty of time to grab a sandwich for lunch or whatever last minute items we might want.  As for myself, there really wasn't anything I wanted to shop for.  Whatever I'd buy, I'd have to lug the whole way and, at this point, I was already 5 pounds overweight.  I would do my souvenir shopping after the hike was over!

Alan, Tirina and Chris Swartout and Christina Sand

Christina Sand and Half Dome from Glacier Point

The bus up to Glacier Point turned out to be a tour bus.  So our driver gave us the geology and history of Yosemite, including the native Americans who first lived there, and the Europeans who discovered it and how it came to become a national park.  This proved to be quite interesting, especially the story of Galen Clark, who discovered Mariposa Grove and who moved to Yosemite thinking he had six months to live after a diagnosis of tuberculosis, and lived there until the age of 96!  (Doctors do NOT know everything.)  The native Americans who lived in Yosemite Valley, a fierce tribe led by Chief Tenaya (for whom Tenaya Canyon and Tenaya Lodge are named), called themselves the Ahwahneechee (hence the Ahwahnee Hotel), but the Miwok called them "Yosemite," meaning "They are killers".

I also managed to catch a small cat nap on the bus during our two hour drive, when the bus driver wasn't telling a story.  We got to Glacier Point around 11:00 am.  Everyone took one final (flush) potty break, grabbed an ice cream, and hit the trail!

Panorama Trailhead
5.2 miles to Nevada Fall

The Panorama Trail begins at Glacier Point, and first descends into Illilouette Canyon via a series of long switchbacks.  There are many beautiful wildflowers to see along the way.  One of the more unusual flowers is White Ceanothus.  Blue Ceanothus is often seen on highway meridians, but where we live, I do not often see the white variety. 









Also in evidence was a beautiful purple flower that must be in the pea family, from the shape of its leaves and flower.

Several switch backs later, and we arrived at the  junction with one of the Merced Lake trails.  I was very glad to have my hiking poles, especially since my pack was so heavy that my knees almost buckled once or twice.  By this time, Half Dome was morphing into something less than its iconic shape, with the sheer face no longer visible.  We would see Half Dome from nearly every vantage point during our trip, with the exception of Nevada Fall, where it is blocked by Liberty Cap.  It still amazes me how one mountain can have so many different shapes.

0.9 miles to go to Illilouette Fall... and lunch

We were very fortunate with the weather.  Even though we went in mid-July this year, the weather was still mild and the temperature only 76 degrees.  Very nice weather for hiking!  No one wants to be hiking in 80-90 degree weather, especially witha 50 pound backpack!

Rhododendrons

We reached the bottom of Illilouette Canyon with Illilouette Creek roaring past us and under the bridge.  We stopped to eat our lunch, have a potty break, pump some water and rest for a little bit before making the 500 foot climb out of the canyon and up to the scenic Panorama Cliffs.  Always a good idea to readjust socks and shoes to ensure comfort and decrease the chances of a blister.  I've been very blessed.  Once I got the right hiking shoes, I've never had a blister.  At the river, as well as alongside the trail, we saw beautiful white Rhododendrons.

Yosemite Falls
from Panorama Point Overlook

After a little while, we put our packs back on, crossed the bridge and started the most difficult part of today's hike: the 500 foot climb out of Illilouette Canyon.   Illilouette Fall is not visible from the bridge; in fact, it's barely visible at all until you've crossed the bridge and gone much further along the trail.  Even though I have done this part of our hike twice before, the switchbacks up the hill still seem interminable.  Every time I think I'm almost there, I have a few more switchbacks to go.  Even so, I like hiking uphill more than I like hiking downhill.  It's easier on my knees.  And even though I'm not the fastest hiker, I can go on and one with little difficulty. 



Half Dome behind Liberty Cap,
from the Panorama Trail

Once at the top, the next part of the hike is quite nice, with incredibly scenic views.  There is an unmarked trail that leads to an overlook at Panorama Point.  It's a short detour and well worth the breathtaking views of Yosemite Falls.  Lots of wow factor on this trail!  A short while later, Liberty Cap begins to come into view and eventually will eclipse Half Dome, until we get to Little Yosemite Valley, our destination.


1.1 miles to Nevada Fall on the Panorama Trail

A few more miles and we reach the second junction to Merced Lake, which is much further up in the high country.  But at this point, we know today's hike is nearly over.  1.1 miles from Nevada Fall and that means we are 2.1 miles from our destination.  Woo hoo!  The next portion of the hike is a steep descent on short switchbacks down to Nevada Fall.  I am ready to put my feet in the cold water!  On the other hand, I am probably more inclined to carry on and get to our destination before we lose daylight and in order to get this heavy pack off my shoulders!


Chris and Tirina Swartout, and Christina Sand,
Nevada Fall

It's a gorgeous day and there are many day hikers who have hiked up to Nevada Fall from Happy Isles.  Lots of families with children and young adults.  Not as many of us with full packs on.  After a brief rest, and a photo opportunity, we continued on.

Such a different moment than when I unsuccessfully hiked Half Dome in September 2009.  On that day Duane and I were attempting a one day Half Dome day hike from Glacier Point.  We left late and by the time we got to Nevada Fall, there were literally hundreds of people there.  We went from the serene Panorama Trail to the insanely crowded trail between Nevada Fall and Little Yosemite Valley.  It was a real psychological downer.  As if that wasn't bad enough, I hadn't realized that the trail from Nevada Falls ascends around the base of Liberty Cap up hundreds of granite steps.  This time, I was more prepared for what lay ahead and, because of the new permit system and the time of day, it was much less crowded.  This was a blessing!  As I passed the base of Liberty Cap, I thought about how this was tomorrow's day hike.

Deer, Little Yosemite Valley

After reaching the top of the stairs, we hiked the last approximately half mile to Little Yosemite Valley, our campsite for the next several days.  Thankfully, the campsite has a pit toilet (solar composting for those of you who are "green"), but other than bear boxes to store food, there are no other facilities. At least we would not have to dig a hole with the orange shovel!

When we finally got to the camp and picked a site, we had a deer waiting for us amidst the fallen trees.  We set up camp, I put on my camp shoes, and we all relaxed, happy in the knowledge that we had successfully hiked our most difficult day!  (No, Half Dome is not difficult when hiked from Little Yosemite Valley with a 10 pound day pack.)  We had no trouble at all getting to sleep!  I had brought along J. Craig Venter's very engaging A Life Decoded, his autobiography, and listend to that for a while before going to sleep.  I had packed my Sansa Mini Clip MP3 player which was loaded with a few good audiobooks.  Paper is so much heavier than digital!