Friday, May 28, 2010

Into Every Life, A Little Snow Must Fall

It hasn't rained on my parade. It has snowed on my parade. This photo of Half Dome was taken on the morning of May 28th. There are several feet of fresh snow on top of Half Dome, as you can see. This means that the granite steps of subdome are also covered in snow.

This is a good lesson. You can prepare to the Nth degree. You can do your utmost to be strong and in shape to hike this mountain. But even on your best day, you won't conquer Half Dome. You may conquer your inner demons, but it will only be because Half Dome lets you pass.

From the National Park Service:

The Half Dome cables will not be in place over the June 4-6 permit period.

The combination of heavy winter snows and continuing spring snow storms has kept the snow pack from melting along the trail to Half Dome, including the portion of the trail on the subdome, below the Half Dome cables. A slip and fall from the subdome's steep snowfield could cause serious injury or death. For the safety of hikers and the employees setting up the cables, the cables will not be put up until conditions improve. We will monitor conditions over the next two weeks and issue an expected opening date as soon as possible.

If you have a Half Dome day-use permit for May 21-23, or May 28-31, or June 4-6, you will receive a refund.

It's doubtful I'll be able to get another permit this year. Maybe next year?

Sunday, May 23, 2010

Best Laid Schemes...?

But Mousie, thou art no thy lane,
In proving foresight may be vain:
The best laid schemes o' mice an' men
Gang aft agley,

An' lea'e us nought but grief an' pain,
For promis'd joy!

Robert Burns, To a Mouse, 1785

Sometimes you can't win for losing. No matter how much you prepare and get ready, there will always be circumstances out of your control. There is currently no access to Glacier Point, or the trailhead for the Panorama Trail, which is still under snow. Subdome is still covered in snow - not even the rangers can pass to put the Half Dome cables up. The cables will not be up over Memorial Day weekend and that's the weekend before we are supposed to hike into Little Yosemite Valley.

2010 has seen record levels of snow in the Sierra Nevada, currently at or above 150% of normal. I have come to the conclusion that even if the cables are up and the snow on subdome melts and the road to Glacier Point is open, it's going to be downright cold.

Do I really want to go backpacking, camping and hiking in the snow and freezing cold?

Update 8:34 pm: Snow is now forecast for Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday of this next week:

A STORM IS FORECAST TO DEVELOP AND MOVE SOUTHEAST TOWARD CENTRAL CALIFORNIA LATE TUESDAY NIGHT... AND CONTINUE INTO WEDNESDAY AND POSSIBLY THURSDAY.

SNOW MAY BEGIN AS EARLY AS TUESDAY EVENING IN YOSEMITE PARK... AND SPREAD SOUTH ACROSS THE REST OF THE SIERRA WEDNESDAY. THE SNOW LEVEL WILL INITIALLY BE NEAR 8000 FEET... BUT LOWER TO 6000 TO 7000 FEET LATER WEDNESDAY AND THURSDAY.

SIGNIFICANT SNOW ACCUMULATIONS ARE POSSIBLE AT AND ABOVE 7000 FEET... AND COULD RANGE FROM A HALF FOOT IN SEQUOIA AND KINGS CANYON PARKS... TO OVER ONE FOOT FARTHER NORTH IN YOSEMITE PARK. BELOW THE SNOW LEVEL... PERIODS OF COLD RAIN ARE LIKELY.


This means that it is likely that Little Yosemite Valley will see at least some snowfall, as it is at 6100 feet elevation. Glacier Point, however, is at an elevation of 7214 feet, which means there will likely be significant snowfall there. This will delay the opening of the Glacier Point Road and access to the Panorama trailhead, from which we have been planning to start our hike.

Friday, May 21, 2010

Leaves of Three... Let Them Be

I guess I didn't let them be.

One of the hazards of hiking is poison oak. I must have brushed up against some during our hike in the Pinnacles. It's Spring and since the leaves are still green, I may not have noticed them among the rest of the verdant foliage.

A couple of days after our hike, while I was in the shower, I noticed a rash on the underside of each elbow, a patch on the back side of my shoulder, and one patch on my upper arm. Unfortunately, by the time I noticed it, I had already had a couple of hot showers, letting the urushiol - the chemical that causes the allergic contact dermatitis - sink deeper into my open pores.

Fortunately, there are treatments, but they aren't a panacea. Tecnu or Zanfel are probably the best products on the market, but they should be used immediately and with cold water so that the urushiol oil doesn't sink deeper into the pores. After that the only thing you can do is treat the symptoms with a hydrocortisone cream to decrease the swelling and/or a Benadryl cream to reduce the itching.

I've used them. I'm still itching. It's been almost two weeks. Time to visit the doctor and see if there is something stronger to stop this dead in its tracks.

Meanwhile, I suspect my backpack may also be infected. I used hot soapy water, with Dawn detergent, to wash my backpack thoroughly. I've also ordered some Ivy Wipes, which are supposed to help clean off equipment. Urushiol is found in poison oak, but also in poison ivy and poison sumac.

I really don't want to do this again. And I sure don't want to reinfect myself just before attempting Half Dome for the second time.

Sunday, May 9, 2010

Wildflowers and Caves at Pinnacles National Monument

It was an extremely busy day yesterday. Brunch with mom and dad in Half Moon Bay, our son's Little League game, and later the Stanford Pow Wow. We were fairly well exhausted last night, but still when we got home, we readied our packs for today's hike at Pinnacles National Monument. We got our packs ready, bought some deli sandwiches from the grocery store, and put our clothes out. Duane was not feeling well with a worsening cold, so even though he got his pack ready, he wasn't sure he would go.

Along with my Thermarest pad and tent, I also added an extra 7 pounds to my pack for a total of 35 pounds of weight. What kind of insanity causes me to add barbells to my backpack? I'm conditioning to give Half Dome another try. I need to develop muscles that are capable of carrying 35-40 pounds without flinching by simulating the weight I would carry on the day we backpack into Little Yosemite Valley.

Because the drive to this hike from San Jose is about an hour and 45 minutes, we needed to get up really early in the morning. My alarm went off at 5:00 am. Yuck. Definitely not enough sleep last night. After determining that Duane wasn't going to go because his cold was worse than yesterday, I tried to convince our son to go with me. No dice. If Daddy wasn't going, he wasn't going. The lure of caves, lizards, wildflowers, big rocks to climb on, and possibly California Condors was not strong enough to get him out of bed at 5:00 am. So I showered, got dressed, and took off by myself to our carpool rendezvous at Santa Teresa Village Shopping Center, right in front of the Nob Hill Grocery Store. I made sure to check that it had coffee and was open at 6:00 am.

Unbeknownst to me, however, the invitation that I wrote up for posting to Deb's Evite hiking list, got slightly changed. She set the carpool rendezvous time for 7:00 am. So when fellow hiker Angela called me the night before to make arrangements to be picked up in Gilroy, she didn't understand why I wanted to pick her up 15 minutes before I was supposed to leave the parking lot in Santa Teresa. And when I texted fellow hiker Chris at 6:00 am, asking if he was up yet, he just about had a heart attack thinking he was late and high tailed it out of his house. (I've got to give him kudos for getting to the parking lot at 6:15 am. I don't think I could have done it!) We didn't figure this out until we were all in the car and on our way to Pinnacles.

I had time to buy some juice, coffee, and a cinnamon breakfast roll while waiting for Chris, and we shared this in the car on the ride down. Poor Angela had to put up with two amateur radio operators in the car, but hopefully we weren't too bad and didn't bore her. The ride was free of traffic and we made great time. We got to the Visitor Center on the east side of the park, which was then closed. We thought this would be a good time for a bathroom stop, but even that was closed. So we drove on to the Old Pinnacles trailhead. I stopped at the entrance gate and purchased a new National Parks pass as mine had expired eight days previously.

After finally making our bathroom stop, we readied our packs and hit the trail at about 8:30 am. The first part of the hike was over level terrain on the Old Pinnacles trail, which follows the West Fork of Chalone Creek. The Creek was mostly dry now, but what was immediately evident was the number and variety of wildflowers in bloom. Spring came late, but it has most definitely sprung! The first thing I noticed was a new variety of monkeyflower, Notch-petaled Monkeyflower, with bigger paler blooms than the regular variety. Among the most beautiful flowers we saw early on was Elegant Clarkia - just before a coyote crossed our path.

After the first mile, we began to have incredible views of the craggy rock formations that are the Pinnacles. We began to climb a rocky trail that all but disappeared into the boulders, then followed a creek bed right into the Balconies Cave. Had I know ahead of time what I signed us up for, I might have thought twice about taking a backpack in here. There were some low and tight spots which made getting through with a backpack exceedingly difficult. I took the pack off in several places in order to get through. Although flashlights are absolutely required, the trail inside the cave is well marked with numbered sign posts and, in a few places, railings.

After emerging from the cave, we continued on the Balconies Trail until we reached the Chaparral Ranger Station. As one might expect from the name, this area is a chaparral microclimate. Views of the craggy peaks were much better on this west side of the range. From here, we hiked onto the Juniper Canyon Trail, which would take us into and up the side of the canyon traversing multiple switchbacks. From the base of the peaks, the climb looked very intimidating and even more so with me carrying my heaviest backpack to date. I wondered if it would be like the Half Dome trail out of Little Yosemite Falls with its seemingly interminable switchbacks. It was. We continued to see many beautiful wildflowers, including the Venus Thistle, Western Wallflower, Blue Dicks, and Cream Cups

About halfway up the side of the mountain, we turned onto the Tunnel Trail. This would take us up to the High Peaks Trail, avoiding the steep and narrow section while at the same heading in a direction that would complete our loop. Just before passing through the tunnel, we saw a bunch of California Condors, with their signature white beneath the wings, riding the rising air currents as they pushed up against the Pinnacles. Beautiful!

The terrain along this trail was also some of the most spectacular that I have seen on a local hike. As we rose higher and higher in the canyon, the views, both of the canyon and the Pinnacles themselves, became ever more grand. These grand rock formation are actually what remains of an ancient volcano. We had an excellent panorama view of the valley to the West towards Hollister.

The weather couldn't have been better. The average temperature for May 9th is 78 degrees, with the record high being 98 degrees. The Pinnacles is really a Spring hike as temperatures here can be as high as 110 degrees in the summer. As I planned this hike, I knew I would need to keep an eye on the weather and cancel if it got too hot. As it turned out, I didn't need to do that at all, since we've had an unseasonably cold and long winter. The temperature never got over 70 degrees. It was cloudy and overcast for much of the day. There was a small chance of rain, but so far the weather had held. We were very blessed!

Several switchbacks later after the tunnel, we reached the High Peaks trail and the ridgeline where we could see for miles in all directions. Here we sat down and ate our lunch and rested for a while. I took off my boots. My liner socks which were bunched up against my toes and causing some pain. What I needed was some Glide, but that had unfortunately been left at home. I decided to try using some chapstick instead, and that actually worked, though I think that tube is now a goner!

After lunch we continued on down the High Peaks trail towards the Old Pinnacles Trailhead. Although this trail runs through the High Peaks, it is fairly level to gently sloping in this area as it runs along the ridge line. We continued to see many beautiful wildflowers, including the Butterfly Mariposa Lily (isn't that redundant?), Indian Paintbrush, Bitter Root, the Blue Fiesta Flower and the Spreading Larkspur, which reminded me of an iris, although quite small.

Eventually, we reached a trail junction and had to decide whether to hike down the Condor Gulch Trail or keep hiking down the High Peaks Trail. Initially, I had planned to take the Condor Gulch Trail, but since Chris had a commitment after the hike and we had already seen several Condors, we opted to continue along the High Peaks trail. This shaved about one mile off the total distance of our hike, turing what would have been a nine mile hike into an eight mile hike. Given that we'd all acquitted ourselves admirably on the 1500 foot elevation change up those switchbacks, I wasn't too concerned.

The other consideration was that it was starting to sprinkle, and at times more than that. Fortunately, I had my rain poncho with me and I put it on. I still don't have a lightweight, waterproof backpacking jacket for which I've been contemplating another trip to REI.

Just as we were almost at the end of the High Peaks trail, who should we run into but Deb and her friend Roger! What a surprise! They hadn't planned to go on this hike because they had dome some very strenuous hiking the day before. What a hoot to run into them at the end of our hike.

About 200 more yards and we were back down to the flat, off the High Peaks trail and back onto the Old Pinnacles Trail that would take us back to the parking lot - and the bathroom! We stopped at the Visitor Center on the way out where I purchased a patch and book on Condors for our son.

What a magnificent and beautiful hike!