Showing posts with label John Muir Trail. Show all posts
Showing posts with label John Muir Trail. Show all posts

Sunday, July 17, 2011

Shower: Here I Come!

Chris, Tirina & Alan Swartout at LYV Base Camp
I haven't written much about our base camp at Little Yosemite Valley, but it definitely deserves mention.  It was certainly spartan - a necessity when you are carrying your every need on your back.  But by backpacking standards, it was very decent.  We used the round of one of the fallen trees, set upon a smaller round, to make a dining table.  We used smaller sections of truck for chairs.

Reliance foldable water carriers
I'd also say that we ate very well.  Chris has done this enough times that he knows what brands of backpacking food are yummy (Mountain House) and which are not.  He also knows good non-backpacking foods.  We ate red beans and rice, beef stew, chicken teriyaki, lasagne and pesto for our dinnertime meals.  I'm pretty picky about my pesto, but I thought it had a pretty good flavor (or maybe anything tastes good when you're backpacking).   Lunch was always a peanut butter and jelly sandwich, if only because it's so easy to pack.  It's not my favorite, but it was sufficient.  I tried different kinds of Justin's nut butters to mix it up a little. All of our food, of course, went into the bear lockers that are provided by the park.  We never did see a bear at Little Yosemite Valley.  Our only bear experience was at the backpacker's campground on the valley floor.  I was glad!
Chris Swartout's Hammock
For water, we used Reliance foldable water carriers.  Every morning, we walked to the Merced River and pumped filtered water into these storage containers, and then walked them back to camp.  This more than took care of our water needs every day.
Little Yosemite Valley to Happy Isles,
John Muir Trail
Chris was also the only person in camp who had a hammock.  He really likes relaxing/napping in his hammock after a long day's hike.  Little did we realize it would become a major source of amusement as we watched Chris put it up.  On the first attempt, Chris tied everything in place, got in the hammock, and one of the ropes broke, causing him a somewhat embarrassing landing.  But he got up, affixed a new rope in place of the old one and once more tied it to the tree.  This time, he got into the hammock, and the winding of the rope slid so that he was one inch off the ground.  Fortunately, on the third attempt, all went well!  Tirina and I, however, were watching all of this transpire from our tent.  It was better than television's Funniest Home Videos!
Alan Swartout, Nevada Fall
All good things must come to an end.  I needed to leave a day early, so I could get back to my family in school.  Although I had managed to arrange things with most of my classes, there was one exam that I could not delay (because it was given electronically).  I was planning to skip it, but if I hiked down to Happy Isles today, I could possibly get home in time to take my exam and preserve a good grade in my class.  And truthfully, I was beyond ready for a shower!
Since Alan also wanted to go home and work on some things, we hiked down the John Muir Trail together. (Either that or he was being quite the gentlemen.)  We packed up our stuff, took one tent with us, left the food and packed out most of our garbage.  Our packs were at least 15 pounds lighter than when we started and much easier to manage than the day we hiked in!  This made for faster and happier hiking.
Half Dome, Mt. Broderick, Liberty Cap & Nevada Fall
As we passed Nevada Fall and began to descend on the John Muir Trail, I looked up and said goodbye to Half Dome, as well as to Mt. Broderick, Liberty Cap and Nevada Fall.  The John Muir Trail offers an impressive view of all four landmarks just before you start descending down the many switchbacks to Vernal Fall.
Probably the worst thing about the John Muir Trail is that you have to share it with mule trains.  Most of the time you can keep ahead of them, but eventually you do get passed.  Then they stop for a while and you pass them and repeate all over again, which means you get to "enjoy" the fresh essence of excrement all the way down the trail.  I'd probably complain less if the mules were carrying my backpack, but they weren't, so here we are.
Footbridge near Vernal Fall
The best thing about the John Muir Trail is that you don't kill your knees on the way down the several hundred steep granite steps of the Mist Trail.  And given that there was so much rain this year, and the Merced running so strongly even now in July, the Mist Trail would be guaranteed to get you soaked.  Taking the John Muir Trail is a little bit longer, but even this has its advantages.

Vernal Fall from the footbridge
We had missed Vernal Fall on the way up because we took the Panorama Trail.  We could hear the Merced River get louder and louder as we descended the switchbacks.  The sound of roaring water was always there telling us we were getting closer to our destination.  When we finally reached the Vernal Fall footbridge, we knew that meant we had only 1 mile left of a nicely paved footpath. 
High Sierra Trail Sign: Half Dome - 8.2 Miles

When we finally reached the High Sierra Loop Trail sign and, shortly thereafter, the bridge at Happy Isles, our trek was over.  Although we could have caught a bus, the backpacker's parking lot wasn't far, so we walked another half mile or so to the parking lot.  It was odd to see my car covered with so much dust.  I unlocked it, opened up the back and we both took off our packs, and put on our comfortable shoes.

Next stop:  Housekeeping, where they have showers.  For a small fee, you can get a nice, hot shower.  I enjoyed every second of it thoroughly.  It felt so good to have clean hair and clothes on again!  Since it was still early, only about 12:30 pm on Sunday, we decided to visit the Ahwahnee and its famed Sunday buffet.  We managed to get in, and  I splurged and had some champagne.  What a glorious end to our trip, to have luncheon in such a beautiful space, listening to some awesome piano playing!

We left Yosemite National Park after lunch and started our three and a half hour drive home, back to my family and to school.  But not before taking one final look at Half Dome, from the lawn behind the Ahwahnee Hotel.  It was mind boggling to think that I had been on top only two days before.  As always, I am very blessed.
Half Dome, from the Ahwahnee Hotel

Saturday, June 20, 2009

Water, Water Everywhere

We set our alarms for 5:45 a.m this morning, but as it turned out it was unnecessary. Our son knocked on our door at 5:00 a.m. Our son and Uncle Dave were up early to see us off!

We showered, dressed and packed the final items in our packs. I packed my sandwich and we both filled our water bladders. I left a little bit of room in my hydration bladder and filled the rest of it with ice. That kept my water nice and cool for much of the day.

In doing all of this, I put my pack on my bed for a moment and when I picked it up a few minutes later, I noticed that there was some water on the bed. It turns out I had put the pack on the valve and released some of the water. I quickly cleaned it up while Duane gave me a hard time about doing this and reminded me to keep the valve closed. (He had done this at home about two months ago, emptying the entire remnants of his bladder onto our kitchen floor.) Duane meanwhile, had also put his pack down on the bed and, only moments later, noticed that he had a HUGE leak. (Uncle Dave named it "Lake Havasu".) Unfortunately, it wasn't just on his bed. The entire contents of his pack were soaked, including his spare socks. Apparently, the lid to the hydration pack had not threaded correctly. He quickly pulled the bedspread off the bed so that at least the mattress wouldn't get soaked, refilled his hydration bladder and this time put the lid on correctly.

Worse yet, he discovered this at 6:25 am, only five minutes before our shuttle was supposed to leave. We went downstairs, checked in for the shuttle and while we waited a few minutes for it to be ready, Duane unpacked his wet pack and dried the contents out and repacked, while I fetched him some dry spare liner socks from our suitcase. Fortunately, Duane didn't have his sandwich in his pack or that would have gotten soggy too.

We loaded our team, the Panorama #4 team, into two shuttles and headed off for Yosemite National Park and Glacier Point. About 40 minutes later, we arrived and, after some photos and an opportunity to use the bathroom, we headed off. Our son and Uncle Dave drove separately to Glacier Point to see us off. It was clear that they were going to have a really fun day together! Ten minutes and a few switchbacks down the side of the canyon and we heard two voices yelling "Bye" at us - our son and Uncle Dave waving at us from Glacier Point. That was really cool!

Almost immediately after we started our hike, we noticed a bush with white blossoms. Our guide Roddy told us that it was Whitethorn. I thought it looked an awful lot like Ceanothus, except that it wasn't blue. It turns out that Whitethorn IS a white Ceanothus.

The view of Half Dome, where several of our teammates were hiking, is much more imposing and intimidating from Glacier Point (seen above with Vernal and Nevada Falls to the right) than it is from the valley floor. I must admit to having mixed feelings about not making the team, especially after what happened last week. Fortunately for our teammates, the weather is perfect. Not too hot and no rain. They will have a good day.

The first stretch of our hike was mostly down switchbacks, not terribly steep. We made it to the first junction and the group was still mostly together. By the time we got to the junction of the Panorama and Buena Vista trails, about 2.6 miles into our hike, one of our teammates was falling seriously behind. We waited about half an hour at that junction for the group to come together before trekking on. This teammate apparently didn't participate in most of our training hikes - so much so that I didn't even realize this hiker was on our team. Apparently, this hiker had an issue with blisters and, to make things incredibly worse, had chosen not to wear the hiking boots that had been left in the car. Instead, this hiker wore ordinary tennis shoes. No hiking poles either.

On a short hike, this might not make much of a difference. But on a longer hike with a lot of downhill, this was a stupendously bad idea. The tennis shoes did not have enough room in them at the toes for all of the downhill we were doing. Consequently, this hiker was jamming toes into the end of the shoe and will probably lose both big toenails and perhaps others as well. This teammate hiked the last paved mile from the footbridge to Happy Isles in stocking feet.

Similar problems had happened to me earlier in the season and I was not unsympathetic towards this hiker. I was unable to finish our Windy Hill hike. That's when I discovered that my boots were too small and that I needed an orthotic to prevent problems with my metatarsal arch. As of today, I am on my fourth pair of hiking boots, but I sorted these issues out months ago and I kept at it until the problem was solved.

There is apparently a requirement that all Team in Training hike participants wear appropriate hiking boots for our last and longest two hikes and also for the event. So why this hiker was allowed to participate with inadequate gear doesn't make any sense to me. Where was our coach who was acting as the sweep on our hike? Didn't she notice? And what about the officials who were taking check ins? Tennis shoes would have been fine for the easy, level Valley Floor hike, but not for a 9.6 mile hike with a 3,179 ft. elevation drop!

The immediate consequence for the rest of the group was that we had longer and longer waits for this hiker to catch up at the trail junctions. By the time we got to the Vernal Fall footbridge, just past the junction of the Mist and the John Muir trails and nearly at the end of our hike, we were waiting about an hour. Our muscles started to cool down and tighten up and we had to keep stretching. Our hike, which should have taken between five and six hours, instead took about eight.

But even that couldn't ruin the glorious day that we had. The weather was perfect and the temperature never rose above 80 degrees. We hiked down to Illilouette Creek and crossed the bridge, reaching Illilouette Fall a few feet later. Illilouette Fall can not be seen from the bridge or even from just above the Fall - we had to view it on our way down to the bridge. We dawdled a bit at the bridge before hiking our one incline of the day (about 700 feet) out of Illilouette Canyon and on to Panorama Point. Panorama Point has incredible vistas of Half Dome, Yosemite Valley and the Merced River. Awesome!

After Panorama Point, we pressed on along mostly level terrain until the junction of the Panorama and Mono Meadow trails. From there we descended a series of switchbacks down to Nevada Fall. Wildflowers were in evidence throughout the day, with the best specimen being the wild azalea that we saw just before reaching Nevada Fall. They were wonderfully fragrant, reminding me of the perfume of star jasmine or wisteria.

We stopped at Nevada Fall for lunch (would someone please remind me NOT to put avocado on my sandwich when I order it the day before). There was also the opportunity to use the bathroom conveniently located slightly upriver from the Fall. We had wonderful views of Liberty Cap and the Merced River, while eating our lunch.

Roddy, our trail guide, had been given about five pounds of M&Ms and trail mix to carry in his pack. Why, I wasn't sure, since we all had our own food. Apparently, people didn't bring enough food last year, so this year the guides and everyone else over corrected. So poor Roddy had to carry all that extra weight the entire hike and, of course, he took every opportunity he had to offer us M&Ms. We obliged as we could, but refrained from giving any M&Ms to the two squirrels who befriended us during lunch.

Of all the trails we have hiked over the past several months, this one had the most bathrooms, located at Glacier Point, Nevada Fall and the Vernal Fall footbridge. I think there was one at Vernal Fall too. Ironically, I didn't need to use any of them, which was even odder considering that I nearly always need a bathroom about ten to fifteen minutes into a hike. Go figure. I must have calculated my liquid and electrolyte intake just right. I drank a 32 ounce bottle of Gatorade on the first half of the hike and another 32 ounce bottle of Gatorade on the second half of the hike. In between I sipped water out of my hydration pack. By the end of our hike, I had almost no fluids left. Perhaps, being at higher and drier elevations, my body also knew that it needed to use more fluid?

My equipment was also working well. My hiking boots were comfortable all the way to the end of our hike. My newly purchased sweatband worked wonderfully, keeping my forehead nice and cool while at the same time keeping my glasses dry. The water-laden neckerchief that I had purchased was refreshingly cool on my neck and I was glad to have it along.

Oddly, our group was composed of several teammates with injuries. Duane had a knee injury earlier in the season as did another of our teammates. A different teammate was recovering from a broken collarbone. And there was our hiker with toe issues. But most of us had been training for Half Dome and were in pretty good shape despite all, remaining at our near the front of the pack. Duane's knee didn't bother him the entire hike - his knee strap did its job.

After lunching at Nevada Fall, looking at the Fall from the observation point and taking several photos, we moved on. At this point, we made the decision to take the John Muir trail down to Happy Isles, rather than the Mist trail. The Mist trail goes right next to the waterfalls and is composed of two runs of large granite steps cut out of the side of the canyon. Going down the John Muir's more gradual switchbacks would be easier on the knees and feet than the Mist's granite staircases, despite the extra half mile, and we already had one hiker with serious feet problems.

As we descended down the John Muir Trail, we were passed by a few mule trains which left their smelly droppings along the trail. We hadn't encountered these during our April hike to Vernal Fall, most likely because portions of the trail were still covered with snow and it was too early in the season. Despite this odiferous portion of our hike we had a stunningly glorious view of Nevada Fall on the way down, hiking under an overhang dripping with snow melt. Very refreshing, but we had to watch out for our cameras!

By the time we got to Clark Point, all was beginning to look very familiar albeit with less snow than there was last April. Only 1.7 miles to go! We hiked down this last portion of the hike reaching the junction of the Mist and John Muir Trails. Our guide Roddy decided to wait at that junction for the rest to catch up and told the rest of us to proceed a short way down to the Vernal Fall footbridge. It was a nicer place to wait, complete with bathroom, drinking faucet and a place to wash off the dirt. We waited there for about an hour before hiking the last bit to Happy Isles.

At Happy Isles, we caught the shuttle bus to Yosemite Lodge, where we were to check in from our hike before catching our vans back to Tenaya Lodge. I stopped in at the general store and purchased a six-pack of Bud Light, which I shared with our teammates. Our hiker with the foot problems was very happy to be back and I was glad to offer my congratulations with a beer! On the way back to Tenaya Lodge, we stopped for a bathroom break and I finally had the desire to unleash what was left of the pent up fluids I had consumed earlier in the day. Ahhh!

We had an hour and a half to shower and change into fresh clothes, after reaching the lodge and reconnecting with our son and Uncle Dave. Felt so much better! I wasn't much sore this evening, despite the length - and duration - of our hike. This trail really wasn't very challenging. But, oh, what gorgeous vistas! At 8:00 p.m., we went to the Celebration Dinner, where we ate a pretty good meal and even had enough energy left over to dance some swing. After dinner, I soaked in the jacuzzi for an hour with some of our fellow hikers, sharing stories of the day, before turning in for the night.

What a wonderful day!

Sunday, April 19, 2009

Vernal Falls and Beyond...

After a quick breakfast, we departed for Yosemite National Park. We parked at Curry Village and took the shuttle over to the Happy Isles trailhead.


I was carrying two bottles of G2, two water bottles, two granola bars, trail mix, and sports beans. Duane carried his knapsack with more of the same and our son carried his hydration fanny pack. Unfortunately the belt wouldn't cinch small enough for his waist, but I managed to tie the straps together and make it just right. For some reason, there was no clip attached to the hose, so I had to snake it up through the belt for easy access.

We started off at about 10:30 am, several hours later than we are planning to begin this hike on June 20th. The John Muir Trail follows the Merced River which, at this time of year, runs strong and swiftly from all of the snow melt. We could see Illilouette Falls running in a distant side of the canyon. In fact, after hiking probably only a quarter of a mile, we had fantastic views of Illilouette Fall to the side of us, Vernal Fall and Nevada Fall ahead of us and Yosemite Falls behind us. The trail wound gradually up to a footbridge.

Here at the footbridge is the last flush toilet and water fountain. We took advantage of the opportunity! We crossed the river where the trail meanders through the woods for a bit. After that, the Mist Trail splits off from the John Muir Trail and we began our ascent up the approximately 800 granite steps, which would take us up to Vernal Falls, 1.5 miles farther and 1000 feet higher than where we began.

I won't say the steps were easy, but I will say that I expected something more difficult. The stairs themselves are rough hewn out of Yosemite granite, and most of the steps are higher than normal. I was particularly grateful that we had been walking up and down Communications Hill multiple times. As we got closer to Vernal Falls, we were treated to a beautiful rainbow off the mist, which also got us plenty wet as we went up the stairs. We had to put on our jackets for a time and even so, we got pretty wet, but it wasn't far from the top and the water felt good after our climb.

We rested and refueled at Vernal Falls, enjoying the beautiful view of the powerful water rushing over the slick granite. After our rest, we hiked up the Merced River about another 100 feet, before taking the connecting trail up to Clark's Point where we joined up with the John Muir Trail once again. We chose this route because we wanted to save our knees the pounding that would surely ensue going down all of those wet granite steps. The switchbacks, which still had snow, on the John Muir Trail was twice as long, but we didn't have rubber knees at the bottom.

We reached Happy Isles again at 2:00 pm, and quickly caught the shuttle back to the car at Curry Village. We had just enough time to make it to the Awahnee Hotel for Sunday brunch! This is one of my favorite things to do in Yosemite, not only because they have a killer buffet, but because the dining room is so beautiful.

In we walked, hot and sweaty and in our hiking clothes and they seated us anyway! (They do have a dress code for dinner.) Our son had fun picking out his favorite yummy lunch and I had some really great sushi and other treats.

At about 3:30 pm, we began the long drive back home. Duane took the first shift. Our son and I slept in the car all the way to Mariposa where we switched drivers and Duane got to take his nap.

We had a great time this week! We walked all over the place, we hiked in the mountains and we managed to come home with mostly clean clothes! Tomorrow it's back to reality...